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Peak Mountain 3

Fatty Can't Fit

FA Jeff Scheuerell ?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of a kind 3rd pitch

P1: 5.10- - Head up the 2nd right most bolted line on the ledge. After 6 bolts or so, traverse right along a ramp, placing a few pieces of gear, to a bolted anchor.

P1 Direct: "Move Over Rover" 5.11 - The right most bolted line off the main ledge. An excellent pitch that makes use of a perfect knob at the 2nd bolt to make for a just there crux reach for a jug. Can plug in a #0.3 then it's bolts to the previously mentioned anchor. recommended.

P2: 5.10 - Heads up the moss streak above. I wonder if this pitch was ever clean, would take a big effort to do so. It's still climbable as the knobs stick out of the moss layer but a little more freaky. An otherwise amazing and long pitch. Skip a bolted anchor out right towards the top and head up left to another bolted anchor below the hole. A #0.5 is nice below a knob tie off on this pitch.

P3: Truly unique - have never seen a tube like this in granite. pretend you're tunneling through a rime mushroom on Cerro Torre. After emerging, head up and right passing some bolts and gear options, eventually making it to the top of the cliff and a rap anchor (one bolt needs a quicklink/ring, and a knife to cut tat). A little runout but gets easy.

Rap the route with 1 60. Frist rap is to a bolted anchor left of P3 in a cave. Then to the bottom of P3. Then to an anchor on the route to the left. Then to the ground (careful with a 60).

Location

This route (and others) starts off a sloping ledge up and left of the main Blue Moon area. Head left along the base of the dome for a ways and then up, following cairns, then back right onto the big ledge.

Protection

Light rack from tiny -> #2. 14 draws.


Routes in Wawona Dome


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    Fatty Can't Fit
    5.10b
    Trad