- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a historic testpiece route that was put up by Henry Barber and was not repeated for about 10 years until Henry and Michael Kennedy did it again.
I heard that Henry was not a fan of cams and Michael did not use chalk. Henry said "we're not going to use cams, ok", and Michael said "ok, if you don't use chalk." Then they cruised the route.
While this route has not seen a ton of ascents, it is a great climb.
Start in the obvious corner to the left of
Block Party
, and climb the corner with small to no gear until the corner opens up to a finger crack. Then step right to a ledge where an old pin and stopper anchor are located. Pass it, and climb the obvious hand / fingers splitter off the ledge.
From the top of the splitter, people usually continue up blocky, loose terrain to the big anchor tree on the mirror wall approach ledge. Descend by going down the ramp to the left.
This route can be climbed to the tree in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. Otherwise, break it up however you like.
Location
It is 30-40 feet left and uphill from
Block Party
.
Protection
An assortment of small stoppers and cams up to hand sizes (there are no bolts).
Routes in East Buttress
- 8Pine Box5.10+Trad