Butterflies are Free

General: Butterflies are Free is a variation to the first pitch of Mastercharge (5.11b). Its quality, moderate grade, and popularity make it worth noting as a separate route. This route is a great alternate route to gain the 3rd-class ramp that splits the left end of the cliff as well as a great way to approach P2 of Partition.

Route Description: Climb easy rock at the base of the broad corner aiming for the small ledge below and to the left of a small cedar with fixed webbing half-way up the cliff. From here make your way to the obvious crack that starts small but expands to solid hand-size (crux, hard 5.8ish easy 5.9ish). Once you gain the ledge at the top of the hand crack, traverse right to the obvious large ledge and the broad corner. Work up the corner (easier than it looks) till you reach the 3rd class ramp. Either belay from the tree to your left or build a belay on the ramp.

Start: About 50 feet left of the Wiessner Route start. At the base of a broad corner system. Up on the left you can see a hand crack and above a finger crack.

Descent: Two ropes from the large cedar will get you to the ground, but please see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent details for the cliff.

Gear: Stoppers, singles to C4 #2 size, doubles in C4 #1 to sew up the hand crack.

Anchors: Either belay off the large cedar on the 3rd-class ramp, belay on the cedar about 20ft climber's left of the Partition corner or belay in the Partition corner on a gear anchor.