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Peak Mountain 3

Gorilla Traverse

FA: John Goolrick and Gahan Haskins early 1970's, FFA: Goolrick
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the slab at the end of the wall before the base of the cliff starts going uphill to the walk-off. Traverse the horizontal crack to the left. Get high right feet until you can swing your legs over to the left to avoid the slippery bare section in the middle of the traverse. Use the undercling beneath small roof and/ or finger crack on the right side of the overhang to pull to a nice jug. Hammer out this section of upward right hand traversing to get to the big ledge. Power through short vertical wide hands crack to the top.

Location

This route is located at the far right end of the wall just before some nice boulders, where the ground starts to go up hill. A downed tree is a good seat for relaxing/ top rope belay spot. The first horizontal crack is easily spotted. Follow it right and you will see the slab you must climb to get onto the crack. The walk off is up and to the right if your heels were on the edge of the cliff.

Protection

.5'-3 Camelots are great. Nuts are helpful too on the upward right hand traverse. The rusty pitons do not look good. Two .5's is prime. There is a tree and or a large crack to build an anchor.