- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb the vertical crack (great finger locks and jams) to the overhang. Clever body language gets you up the left-rising crack to the apex of the overhang and a welcome hand jam. Still a tad tricky getting through the obstacle, but a solid cam overhead relieves some anxiety. Follow the crack up and left to a gear belay under the roof to finish P1. For P2, walk right to a block providing access above the roof. Climb the hand crack to a horizontal, step right and follow a thin crack to a brushy notch to reach the top. The direct finish, through the left-rising crack breaking the roof, has yet to be led. I've seen one person TR it successfully; he states it is somewhat deeply into 5.11 territory.
Location
This is the eponymous route for the Ape X wall, which lies to the right of the Animal Charm Wall (which lies directly above the Jammer Wall), separated by a double left-rising ramp system. Ape X follows the obvious vertical crack leading to an A-frame overhang at 30'. Note that this route lies just right of Crack of Dawn's 3rd pitch. The glaringly obvious right-rising crack of The Slash lies down and to the right of the start of Ape X
Protection
Standard Adk Trad rack. Walk climber's left 100' to reach a fixed rappel anchor above Animal Charm.
Routes in Upper South Corner Cliffs
- 22Ape X5.9+Trad