- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun way to get into the twin cracks of Muscle Beach. Start by climbing up the mellow blocky tower known as "the spike" for about 15ft. From here make an airy and technical traverse left under the roof past a few gear placements, aiming for the bolt on the arête. Clip the bolt from good holds and head straight up to the next bolt. Once you’ve clipped the second bolt start moving up and left past 1-2 more gear placements and the third bolt. Dracula Direct Finish continues straight up but Dracula (aka Dracula Beach) continues moving left and joins Muscle Beach right before the crux on pitch 2. Pull the crux and finish the rest Muscle Beach ending at the bolt anchor on top of pitch 2.
It is far more pumpy and sustained than the regular pitch 2 of Muscle Beach but no individual moves seem harder than the crux of Muscle Beach.
Location
Same start as Superstition. This route is just left of the Cave and just left of the sport climb The Threat.
Protection
3 bolts, .2”-3” cams, stoppers, bolt anchor
Routes in South End
- 8Dracula (aka Dracula Beach)5.11bTrad