- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an amazing, 2 pitch mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face, into a ramp that leads to a 2nd steep bolted face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear. The direct route begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks on a 3-bolt line. It is just right of the direct start for Jack Straw. The route has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile. P1: Climb the steep, awkward face passing 3 bolts 95.10) to a slab above and trend up and right on unprotected 5.5 slab to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: Climb the steep, thin bolted face (5.10) to the awesome right-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.
The climb begins up and left of Scotch on the Rocks and just right of Jack Straw. To access the 2nd pitch, you could also climb either
Scotch on the Rocks
or the first pitch of
Jack Straw
and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. If accessing via
Scotch
, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance. If accessing via
Jack Straw
, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above. Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.
Location
A single 70m rope rap from the anchors will put you back on the belay ledge. A second rap will get you back to the deck. Be careful with both raps, it is possible to rap off the ends of your rope! You can use a 60m, rapping from the corner anchors to the anchors above
Free Fall
to the anchors on
Scotch on the Rocks
to the deck.
Per
rob bauer
: a 70 meter rope will BARELY get you back to the start of the pitch. Plan on 3 raps.
Protection
P1: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 2 bolts, Camalots #0.3 to 3 (possibly a double set of #1-3, depending on your comfort), and a 2-bolt anchor near the end of the corner.
Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
- 6Kanarado Korner5.10bSport · Trad