- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of
Anthill Direct
, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. It gets 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to
Anthill Direct
in terms of difficulty, and if you've done
A.H.D.
a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. It is harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.
P1: Climb the first few feet of
Anthill Direct's
second pitch, and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the
Anthill Direct
belay. (2 pins + supplemental gear). Continue with
Anthill Direct
.
Protection
A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.
Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress
- 7Chromium Shore5.9+Trad