Disappointment

Start pitch one on a flake that goes up and diagonally. Connect more small to medium gear onto a second left leaning flake. Continue up a vertical crack using medium to large cams and finally traverse left to anchors. Plenty of room for a large group at this belay station.

We started pitch two in the crack left of the anchors. Marty's paper guide says "straight up" which would be face climbing with some small horizontal cracks as protection. Take this vertical crack left of a bulge, pass a piton on your left, continue on up past more vertical crack and dihedral climbing until you finally find the anchors. Some room up here for friends too.

See photo for a visual. Trust me, not the route name... This long multi pitch 5.7 trad climb won't be a disappointment. One full rack with some stoppers should do it. Some doubles of small cams is a nicety but not a necessity. I recommend two 60m single rope raps as the anchors on pitch two consist of an old sling and two pitons that could use replacing.

Update: go to top of formation and do not rap off of pitons mentioned above! See comments below.

Location: second corridor beyond the waterfall (probably 100 ft beyond it), on the left of the canyon.