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MapDescription
Follow blocky terrain (trending right) with short steep sections aiming for the obvious crack just below/left of the summit. Route finding is a challenge lower, but it all leads to a super splitter, perfect-width hand crack. A couple of short cruxy sections lead to ledges below the summit. Rap anchors are set for double lines and are easy to locate.
Location
Travel moderate snow slopes (caution: bergschrund!) and get on the rock as low as you can. Ditch your skis/snowshoes, switch to rock shoes and go! Unless there are unseasonably high snow conditions you can leave the boots behind and travel only with rock shoes once you've left the snow.
Protection
Full rack to a #3 or #4 camalot, set of nuts.
Routes in Middle Troll
- 2South Face5.8Alpine · Trad