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Peak Mountain 3

White Buffalo

FA Greg Collins, Kent McBride
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Splitter Crack in South Face with no bottom.

Start Becky Route, 5.7 warm up pitch. Some fix at belay. 35+m

P2: climb up and left, then improbable face, 5.12d (or A1) past bolts, into bottom of crack, up widening crack to belay from bolts. 30m

P3: Up hand crack through small roof, belay from bolts 5.11a 33m

P4: Finger and hand crack then a traverse right, 5.11c, then up easier ground. 33m

direct finish is open project, a thin off-set left trending seam, 5.11+? after scrubbing?

Rap route with 70 m rope or continue East Ridge to summit.

Location

South Face, below white splitter crack. Start Becky Route go left past bolts in crack system.

Protection

2-3 sets fingers to hand size cams, 1 fist size. Quickdraw's, fixed belays. Good rap route.