- Edit (TBD)
Description
Zen-ith is a great route with just enough spice to make it amazing. Head up the arete to the first bolt of "Breaking Through the Layers", and continue up and right into a nice fingers/thin hands crack. Continue up to where the crack gets wide and then ends. Place a final piece of gear in the crack, and make a move to a jug up on the right, where you can then clip a bolt on the upper face. The business starts here. Make a sustained series of slow and calculated moves (hence the "Zen(-ith)" on crimps and sidepulls, with heady foot smears, up and left towards the arete. The exposure is fun, and makes for a heady crux. Once established on the arete, clip the last bolt and head up to the anchors. Shares the anchor with Supernova, 5.9 trad, in the dihedral on the right.
The enjoyable Zen-ith crux can be climbed all sport by going up the first 4 bolts of Breaking Through the Layers, and then cutting up and over to the first bolt of Zen-ith. It doesn't really add any rope drag (though long slings won't hurt), and the fall is still safe.
Location
Follows the right side of the arete forming a series of small roofs.
Protection
First bolt of "Breaking Through the Layers" and then I use a .5", 2", optional .75", and a 1" cam (or tcu) for the last piece before the first bolt on the upper face. Two gray bolts between the gear and the anchor.