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Peak Mountain 3

Nazar Boncuğu

FA Matthias Holladay
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Nazar Boncuğu is a nice route with good ledges.

Follow easy, right-slanting ramp (good pro) to bolts left and a scramble up to ledge and anchors. Move up on a face, up an easy corner, and do some interesting stemming with the last ending variant of staying left to reach the ledge. Going right up on the grass causes erosion. The last pitch has 11 or so bolts just right of chimney. Bring a 70 meter rope to rap.

"The nazar boncuğu is used to ward off the evil eye. It is commonly believed that the evil eye can be given in the guise of a compliment, signifying its connection to the destructive power of envy (for one’s wealth, beauty, strength, etc.). Amulets such as the Nazar are used in accordance with common sayings such as "an eye for an eye", where another eye can be used to protect the recipient of the malefic gaze. The point of the amulet is to repel evil spirits and keep you safe from harm. So, it is not to have good luck; it is all about protection...".

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazar_(amulet).

Location

Look for a cliff at the head of the upper valley.

Protection

Pro: 1-3 sized Tricams,  1-3" sized hexes, about 5 or 6 pieces, a few longer slings, and lots of QDs for the last pitch.


Routes in Reign of Women


  1. 1
    Nazar Boncuğu
    5.8
    Alpine · Trad