Black Science

Start to the right of Johnson Route. Follow the obvious rough rock up and over the notch in the overhang. For the harder version use the left to the two bolts and continue [straight] up to the two bolt [anchor]. It is easier to clip the right of the two bolts and go right using the flakes to haul on, [anchor] on the mismatched bolts while standing on a good ledge. The second pitch follows the flakes up to the top of the rock. Set up [anchor] using a small pine tree.

[Per S. Green: Pitch 1 begins just right of "The Johnson Route" and climbs up right along a shallow arch then back left on a steep slab to a 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. 4 bolts. Pitch 2 climbs the slab above past a couple bolts and 5.8 moves to the cliff-top. Walk-off descent.]

About 6 draws for the first pitch and 4-5 for the second.