- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the steepest route at the crag. It follows a gaping cleft out the middle of the crag. The moves are fun, and most of the rock/cobbles seemed solid, but the majority route is covered by a fine layer of sand.
Make some fun moves on decent holds past an extremely low first bolt to gain some good holds below the crux. Clip the second bolt then move slightly right over a short-lived bulge that involves widely spaced, slopey cobbles and ends with some good holds in the crack. Keep moving up the crack using suspect cobbles until you can grab a no-hands chimney rest below the headwall. A few more long moves along the thinning crack gains the anchor.
Kind of a pain to clean, but I left a carabiner in the roof to help.
Location
The left crack in the right sector or Shorline.
Protection
Bolts and two bolt anchor. Some of the bolts are looking pretty old and the sheath can be seen behind the hanger. 50M rope.