Orifice Politics

This is a line I have looked at since 1996. The first forty feet had been started by Mark Hathaway so I stayed off of it. In 2001 I bolted a hard variation finish in an effort not to ruffle Marks feathers but still allow me to climb this face. Mark worked it some in 2001 but as far as I know that was it. This year Vince called and asked if he could work the route which was pretty nice since almost no work that I know of has been done on it in years. Mark said yes and so Vince and I started working the route with my alternate finish. Vince figured out the first crux (the Mary Poppins move) which I had never done til this year. Thanks to a little cleaning to consolidate the kitty litter it is pretty reasonable now. Vince has done the route with my original finish which has a harder crux higher up with one hang. Today we bolted the line that I had always envisioned which goes straight up a big flake then turns the bulge and up a less steep but still overhanging headwall. So after twelve years of looking at it and few dozen tries at the crux I finally got to climb it on my second run. It is a great line with a wild crux slightly less than half way up. The rest of the climb is an enduro fest that took knee bars and arm bars to make it go. Will have to wait for others opinions but for twelve years I have said it is one of the most striking lines in Tucson and that is why I am so thrilled to finally climb it. Hey the guidelines say deepest thoughts. Not that deep maybe but they are my thoughts.

P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible then cut loose.

Starts on the ramp about 6 feet before you reach the ledge where you start Hard Day... 70M rope will ensure no one hits the ground on the 102 foot lower.

Bolts,chaws(chain draws) Bring some draws as a few bolts don't have chaws. One working bolt at the crux that is only used to work out the move then skipped.