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Description
Red Spire
takes you along the upper part of the ridge to the far right of red slab. This is a great moderate alternative route for when the
Red Slab
route is crowded with climbers. Start the route by scrambling up a bit of 4th class to clip a bolt above your head. Make the crux move by bypassing a small roof by going to the right. A bit of moss here adds a little to the difficultly. Continue up the ridge on face holds past eight more bolts until you reach a great double chain belay anchor with a platform behind it.
This would not make a good top rope, but is a fine beginning lead.
Location
Red Spire
is located to the far right of the grassy area above
Red Slab
. Approach by following the base of
Red Slab
and then climbing the
Ed and Terry
approach route with the cable. Above the cable look up and to your right for a bolt above a blocky section that leads to the ridge.
Descent may be done by rapping with a 70M or walking off down the
Scenic Turnout
gully.
Protection
Nine bolts and double chain anchors. You may wish to anchor the belayer with gear if you are worried about the climbing before the first bolt. A slip before that bolt would send you and your partner on a long painful ride.