The Guardian

Recent rockfall: The Buddha Ledge start is no longer an option due to the demise of the ledge in a massive rockfall. A new start should be possible but it will likely be a while. The legend will continue and it will be worth the wait. But for now The Guardian sleeps.Legend:It is told that this section of cliff was once guarded by a fierce dragon who could breathe fire to melt the stone and whose sharp talons could gouge the rock like a spade in soft earth. In the great battle of Rumney The Guardian laid scores of rock warriors to waste. No one knows what became of this most feared beast. Some say he still lurks in the caves and crevices of the Highlands. The 3 streaks that mark this route are the only surviving proof of the existence of this mythical creature, as they were made by his lethal claws. It is considered an act of great bravery to this day to attempt to scale the The Guardian's wall... Come fourth brave soul.You can gain the ledge at the base of the route by scrambling up the tunnel cave at the base of the gospel according to mark. Otherwise you could climb a bit of the Gospel or Where the wild things are. Once there its pretty comfy but you may anchor to the tree on the ledge. This is a nice hang out spot.Climb up Giant's Chimney reaching out right to clip the first 2 or 3 bolts. At this point break out on to the face and continue up to an ok rest before the hard stuff begins. Crux 1 involves a bouldery corner involving stemming and some trickery and ends at a nice no hand rest. Catch your breath because from here it stays steep and the game is on all the way to the anchor. Extremely varied climbing for the top 1/3 of the route. Crimps, slopers, all sorts of kneebars (left kneepad recommended), a chimey move or two and eventually a heroic exposed jug haul to the top.This thing is truly epic, exposed, interesting, enjoyable and quite frankly the best climb on the cliff... I checked ;)

The route starts from the ledge at the base of Giants Chimney, 25 feet up. You start in the chimney for about 20 feet following wave bolts to the right of the chimney breaking right on to the steep face at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

You can gain the ledge at the base of the route the "buddah Ledge" by squirming up a little cave that feels fairly secure.

12 wave bolts to anchor.