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MapDescription
This route is located in the Book Binding area immediately around and left from
George's Tree
and takes the splitter crack just right of the shallow dihedral start of
Dead Boy
. The protection is excellent, mostly bomber and easy to place nuts. The first pitch is awesome and described below. However, the guide calls the 2nd pitch "excellent 10a", though it looked somewhat junky to me.
Climb the thin crack to a difficult bulge with flaring finger and hand jams (burly 10+). Cop a rest above the bulge and climb the tips crack past a crux (11b) that is more hard-to-figure-out than actually hard. Rappel from the two-piton anchor or continue with the 2nd pitch.
Protection
Small to medium stoppers. Set of cams up to #2 Camalot.