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Peak Mountain 3

Slip Slidin' Away

FA Tom A. & Larry Schubarth, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Parachute is divided into two sections. The left broad slabby area, and up and right the alcove. The righthand end of the slabby area is terminated by a short wall of boulders with an easy access upwards to the alcove. At the righthand end of the slab is a narrow face bordered on the left by a bushy 5.5 crack and on the right by the arete formed by the right edge of the face. This route climbs the more or less continuous crack system on the left side of the narrow face just to the right of the bushy 5.5 crack.

The crack starts with an easy mantle and then the fun begins. The next 45 feet or so comprise the crux which is really fun face/smearing/fingercrack climbing on good pro. At about 50 feet, the angle eases and there is about 40 more feet of 5.6 to the 2 bolt anchor atop the "5.9 alcove route".

I really liked the cool crack systems at Parachute and thought it to be a really unique little crag. I thoroughly enjoyed this route and would recommend it as a nice 5.10 lead and a good break from clipping bolts.

A comment on the rating: I have climbed a long time and don't spend any time debating letter grades. I used the rating from Hubbel's guide as it seemed ballpark to me. Have fun ;-)

Protection

I used a combination of HB offsets, small to medium stoppers and a couple small to medium cams. The protection overall was excellent on this pitch even though it doesn't look it from the ground. Climbs to the two bolt anchor atop the "5.9 alcove route" for easy rappelling, toproping or lowering.