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MapDescription
Zach Orenczak says: "Start: below a large downward-pointed tooth. Climb up to the base of the tooth and traverse out its left side. Hands to fist."
Sam Benedict Says: Climb a dirty chimney to a left angled overhanging hand to fist crack, move quickly through this section as it is strenuous and painful. The crux is pulling out from under this tooth and into the vertical fist crack. Climb the comparatively chill fist crack as it gradually becomes an even chiller off-with. Scramble of right to the anchors at the top of
Bad Girls Dream
.
Location
2 or three climbs left of
Bad Girls Dream
. An obvious line.
Protection
Doubles in #1-3. A #3.5, 4 and maybe a 5 would be nice for the top. Belay the second from the anchor as lowering would suck gear under the tooth.