Chair in the Sky

Tucked out of sight from the popular climbs in Echo Canyon, Chair in the Sky climbs a striking crack on the south face of the Yucca Flower Tower buttress. From Hail Peak and the tram, it looks like a splitter wide crack, but turns out to have not had the sustained wide climbing we had hoped for. No regrets, this natural line has very good crack climbing and good rock.

Start at a tree to the south and 30' below the start of the Yucca Flower Tower route.

Pitch 1. Climb pumpy moves with some thin gear up to the little roof, get gear in the roof and turn it on the right (crux, 10d). The book's description of this crux as being scary probably has kept interest low; it sure feels full-on, especially as you're probably not warmed up yet. Follow the wonderful mostly-hands 5.9 crack to a stance belay on the "Chair in the Sky ledge" just below a 2nd roof after 150'.

Pitch 2. Turn the mini roof. Climb face and intermittent 5.9 cracks up and left, eventually rolling over to the west face of Yucca Flower Tower. Easier low-angle climbing leads to the bolted belay station at the top of Yucca Flower Tower. (150')

Finish on Great Escape or one of the other headwall options.

South face of Yucca Flower Tower.  Drop down 30' to the south (toward the tram) from the perch at the start of the Yucca Flower Tower and Rawhide routes. You can rappel down this from the last rap station, or downclimb it (probably 3rd class). Set a belay at a large tree (use cordelette or the rope), or perhaps the slightly higher smaller tree.  The rappel approach is recommended, but if you hiked down Echo Canyon to approach, you can scramble up to this tree without difficulty.

Standard rack from RPs to 4" with doubles in the hand sizes. Some folks may appreciate an optional 2nd #4 and optional #5.