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Peak Mountain 3

The Man Eater

FA John Taino 7/31/85
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: 5.10+ pg

Great but difficult to protect hands to fingers up a thin flake system. Continue up the crack system to a few airy and fun thin fingers moves over a short roof. Climb past the star drive and belay at a small ledge with one modern bolt.

P2: 5.10

The crack widens and the gear becomes more confidence inspiring. Belay at a big ledge with two star drives. Back them up with #2 Camalot. Or was it #1?

P3:

Walk across the big ledge around the boulder for 20ft. A three bolt belay is around the corner. At least one of them is a modern bolt

P4: 5.9

Cruise straight up to another two bolt anchor on a big ledge. Watch out for the damn cactus up there.

P5: 5.7

Short set of moves past pins gains the pine tree belay. Watch rope drag.

P6: 5.11+ or A0+

Bolt ladder to the summit. First bolt is missing a hanger. Do a few free moves to get past the gap in bolts higher up.

Location

Obvious flake system left of the alcove. Base of the route faces Ataxia

Protection

lots of star drives

Rack:

Nuts/offsets

Doubles .2-4" less will work, PG either way

2 60m ropes

Knife and webbing/cord to replace rap anchors


Routes in Man Eater Tower


  1. 1
    The Man Eater
    5.11+
    Trad