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Peak Mountain 3

Electric Ladyland

FA Lewis, Accomazzo, Harris. 1975
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This huge right facing corner system is the most striking feature on the East Wall. The corner forms an impressive white wave of rock so big there is a maze of big features within the corner itself. Electric Ladyland follows thin cracks that lead directly to the base of the big right facing dihedral and finishes out an amazing roof. It feels big, it is steep. The route has a little loose rock, good enough placements, and it is in a relatively sheltered location. Why doesn't it see more traffic? Who knows.

The alternate lite start climbs Ten Days After and joins Electric Ladyland at pitch 5 making it route a route mostly in the A2/A2+ range. The upper crux (A3) is a couple pitches below Eagle Ledge and involves a good stretch of equalized heads and beak tips.

Most of this route goes into the shade earlier in the day. It would be a great choice for climbers who don't have enough time for a full El Cap route but want to climb something moderate. Most people climbing at a relaxed pace should plan 2-3 nights on the wall plus approach/descent. The route hauls pretty clean from all bomber anchors - good to go for short fixing. The upper half of the route is somewhat sheltered and the topout seems doable in wet conditions. Amazing and hard free climbing pitches are already woven into the landscape of dihedrals and cracks on and around this climb.

First One Day Ascent: ?

Protection

5-6 LAs

3-4 Blades, thick, including long

2ea Baby Angles

Few Sawed Angles

Many peckers especially medium and large

Standard bigwall cam rack to 5", including offsets

Assortment of Stoppers and offsets

Assortment of heads

Hooks, all types

Bolt kit. Few questionable bolts remain.