We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Clown Loach (temporary name)

FA Ken Trout & Jim Jensen, 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

There is a line between

Guppy

and

Crackside Direct

that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on

Crackside

, too).

You can start this line either from the

Guppy

pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of

Crackside

and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in

Crackside Direct

. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for

Guppy

.

Rappel 115'.

Location

This is between

Guppy

and

Crackside Direct

and follows a black intrusion band.

Protection

Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.