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Peak Mountain 3

Little Jimmie Arete

FA Mike Varlotta, Patrick Broderick and Annie Jones, August 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Beginning where the trail meets the wall in Sisters' Corner, scramble up and right throught the mossy gully (about 8') to gain the blocky arete. Climb up and right another 20' to gain the arete. Continue up, staying inside the left face of the arete standing on good rest stances and placing gear in generally good rock (there are a few hollow flakes and plenty of loose rock among the blocks to avoid). Traverse to the right side of the arete about 20' below the large vegetated ledge to find an easy, yet exposed, line to the ledge. From the ledge, climb up and right pulling through the easy roof to the top (this is the crux - but it is still a 5.4).

Location

800' north past the Jim Pick Wall rock cairn. look for the mossy ramp leading up and right from the trail. From the top there's a fixed line to descend the gully to the Sisters' rap station on the same ledge below the crux. While the fixed line could be used as a simple handline, it's a good idea to wrap a prusik knot around it and lock your personal anchor to it while you descend the line. Belay your partners' descent on the fixed line if they need/appreciate the safety blanket.

Two rap rings on nylon slings make for an exciting start to a 90' rappel back to the trail. This is not a rappel to start without a backup knot.

The fixed line, rappel rings and slings were all in good condition as of November 2014.

Protection

Standard rack. Hexes, nuts and tricams are handy for the finger to fist-sized cracks. Lots of options for slinging blocks, flakes and horns. A small TCU or tricam is handy for protecting the crux.