Standard Route

This is a great moderate route to learn about multi-pitch climbing. Both cruxes are bolted, so all gear placements are on 5.5 rock or easier, making this a good climb for beginning trad leaders. The route has 5 very short pitches with a variety of face, crack, and chimney climbing. To get to the climb park about 1/4 mile above Chimney Rock at a small pullout. Walk back down until almost the far end of the rock, where a steep trail leads to the base of the crag (below George's Buttress). From here, walk back up about 30 yards to the base of the climb. The route starts at a large boulder that's fractured from the main rock. The face above this has two bolts below a large overhanging flake.

Pitch 1 (40 ft): Face climbing with two bolted mantle moves. The second is the crux of the climb (5.7).  Belay off natural pro at the base of the chimney. 

Pitch 2 (50 ft): Climb the fun chimney (by fun, I mean relative to most chimneys) until you can exit out onto a face with several old pitons.  Cross into alcove at right side of the Garden Ledge and belay of natural pro. 

Pitch 3 (20 ft): Move belay to a big tree at the left side of Garden Ledge. The route exits up short layback crack (easy 5.7).  Belay from tree. 

Pitch 4 (80 ft): Move belay left to the end of the big ledge.  Climb the fun, easy and airy buttress to its top. Sling a boulder, or belay off natural pro. 

Pitch 5 (20 ft): Climb the short spire.  Belay off natural pro. 

Descend left with some scrambling and a short rappel.

Bring along a full rack including a good range of cams and stoppers. Both cruxes are bolted, and there are a few old pitons at the top of the second pitch.