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Schneider's Roof
Description
Climb the clean overhanging crack. Starts with some desperate .75 jams in a slightly offset splitter. Then you get a quick shake at a juggy horizontal crack before the final awkward bit on secure fist jams in the irregular crack.
Definitely favors small hands. I handjam #2 camalots and this thing felt really stout for 12a/V4 (and I only sent it on TR...). If you have bigger hands be ready for a sandbag.
Protection
Most people do it on TR, but you could lead it if you bring a couple .75's plus a single set of cams going up to #4. Also if you want to be able to hangdog it on TR you will need to put in a couple directionals (.75's). But the swing is totally safe if you just want to go for it from the ground each attempt.
It's also been bouldered by many people. It's not insanely high by modern standards. A good spotter could maybe keep you from backflopping from 15ft up, but probably best to just not fall if you're going at it without a rope.
Routes in Schneider's Roof Area
- 1Schneider's RoofV4Bouldering