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Peak Mountain 3

Nightmares

FA Rand Black, Brian Dutton, Paul Wollam, Craig Akers - December 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch One:  From belay at base of drainage, climb 5.easy to a large block below the one bolt triangle face above. Climb up Triangle Face past bolt to crux, 5.7 (R & PG-13) -or- bypass up easy crack then right and up to the belay (no bolts) near top of Triangle.

Pitch Two: Traverse rightward along a horizontal fingertip crack under prominent roof, a few moves to the offwidth that splits the roof at 45°, turn roof/offwidth, 5.10-, left and up.  Then 4th class to no bolt belay at base of obvious offwidth above. (this is a very short pitch)

Pitch Three: Climb offwidth up through bulge, 5.9+ to top belay. (no bolt belay) Descent is a walk off/scramble, generally west, south then back east downslope back to base.

Location

Follow up the drainage west about 0.13 miles uphill to belay at base below the triangle block w/ bolt. (see area description)

Protection

1st pitch: one old 3/8" Rawls self-drive bolt with a Leeper hanger.  Cams lower on route. 2nd pitch: small cams and very large cams (Camelot-4-6) 3rd pitch: mostly larger cams for the OW.


Routes in Mesquite Wash Rockpile