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Peak Mountain 3

I Spy

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Description

This is the long "clean looking" dihedral left of a long bolted face climb (

Fogline

). Approach as you would for

Crooked Cross

, but traverse down canyon to the east face (three large dihedrals). This route was given an R rating by Hubbel, but seemed to protect well, although small. Scramble up some rotten rock to a ledge at the start of the dihedral. Jam, lieback, stem, and chimney up to the wide low angle finish. Either go straight up to the tree and walk off, or traverse left to some chains on the arete. A 60 meter rope will just get you back to the ground from the chains. This is a fairly sustained route, with plenty of 5.8 moves that, with a little more traffic would deserve a few stars. Until then, bring your nut tool to 'excavate' placements.

Protection

Lots of smaller stuff, and at least one RP placement. Rack up to a #2 Camalot.