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Peak Mountain 3

Rainbird

FA Fred AmRhein, Craig Zimmerman, July 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Either boulder up to the first bolt from the ground on sloping holds or start from the overhang/cave area by reaching over to the first bolt (this latter start is recommended due to the potential tumble down scree and over the lower cliff line).

Follow 3 bolts up the ledgy face, and take the left line of bolts to a large, left-slanting gully/crack system (the right line of bolts on the lighter colored face is for

Redbird

.

Step over the upward left-trending gully/crack and then to a thought provoking, final, small overhang (5.9-ish move toward left). As for most routes at the Ledges, there are occasional loose features found even though there was extensive removal of loose rock when putting the route up. There is an original higher set of anchors that lie 10-15 feet above and slightly left of the first anchors and the climbing in between involves lower grade, ledgy climbing (

CAUTION:

a 70m rope WILL NOT get you to the ground from the upper anchors).

The route was finished during an afternoon rain storm, and the FAs were communicating by arm signals, appearing to some as if flapping like birds.

Another NOTE of CAUTION: a

t least one climber being lowered from the 1st anchors using a supposed 70m rope has been dropped (it wasn't quite 70m obviously...and the "knot in the end of the rope rule" had been overlooked...). Luckily the climber landed and rolled only slightly to a stop before the abrupt cliff below. In another instance, a rope in a bag was dropped down from the route's upper start on the approach ledge and suffered a worse fate. In almost a comical scene, it at first rolled slowly and seemed to stop and settle, but then it picked up rolling speed and tumbled over the edge and down the lower cliff, landing just short of the river a hundred feet or so below. So, be careful and tie knots, make sure your rope reaches where you need it to on Rainbird]], and you might think twice about absent-mindedly tossing gear to the ground in this particular area.

Location

Start at the bottom of a buttress after stepping down the last few feet from the cave-like overhang as you approach from the west.

Protection

11 bolts and chains at the 1st anchor (a 70m lower/rap) (the higher anchors: 10-15' above that, 80m rope for lower/rap).