Open Book

A Teton classic with great exposure, a short (by Teton standards) approach and simple descent. Not to be missed!

The climb follows a beautiful crack/dihedral system just right of a huge arete. The bulk of the climbing is stellar finger-crack climbing on good rock with airy belays and spectacular exposure. Expect semihanging belays on most pitches.

The climb faces south, so it does benefit from some solar warming.

Pitch 1 - The guidebooks suggest two starts - either a direct 5.9 finger/handcrack or a traverse in from the right. I've done both and the direct start is the way to go. Better crack, and way less rope drag. After tackling the 40 feet of 5.9 jamming, work up an easy section of rock and find a belay stance (below the first overhang?) seem to recall a less-than-perfect anchor here - with a small nut being the best piece.

Pitch 2 - Awesome 5.8 climbing on beautiful, stellar rock. Just keep chugging away straight up the obvious crack. You'll pass a small overhang (to the right) on this pitch. Great protection the whole way. Belay on top of a big detached flake at a small stance.

Note: You can combine Pitch 1 and 2 above (provided you do the direct start) with a 60m rope - which will just make it.

Pitch 3 - The money pitch. Cranking 5.8 liebacking off the belay (slick feet) leads up to an AWESOME section of finger-crack climbing and stemming through a small overhang ending up at a sloping belay ledge below a giant roof. Perfect rock.

Pitch 4 - Improbable but straightforward climbing to the right and up through the roof on great holds. After clearing the roof, follow the crack system up and right to another sloping belay ledge beneath an attractive crack.

Pitch 5 - Two options here as well. You can go right and have some easy 5th-class climbing, or straight up another great crack pitch finishing with a 5.9+ roof move. Good pro makes this pitch recommended, even if the grade might be a little intimidating. Belay on a huge ledge.

Pitch 6 - Face climb straight up until you can get into the big crack. Once the crack ends traverse up and right to finish the climb.

I've comfortably done this route in about 7 1/2 hours car to car moving efficiently, but not racing by any means.

Here's what I brought...

Doubles of either TCUs or Aliens. No need for the microsizes.

Black Diamond 2x#0.5, 2x#0.75, 2x#1, one #2, one #3

Nuts (include some small ones/RPs)