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Peak Mountain 3

Dam Bureaucrats

FA Bob Kerry, BS, JT, 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

See Bob Kerry's Southern AZ Backcountry Climbing Guide.(climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…) P1: 5.7, 120 ft. Low angle crack to ledge with large oak trees. Belay at tree. P2: 5.8+, 110 ft?. Start 10 feet left of belay for P1. Slab climb to a bolt appx 20 feet up, then another 40 feet above the first. Runout. Continue up over a bulge to one more bolt, then two bolt anchor. P3: 5.8, 110 ft.?. Slab climb up and right to a bolt, then horn, up and over a bulge to gully. Belay at flat opening in gully. Best pitch of the route. P4: 5.8-, 70 ft?: Slab climb up and to the right to one bolt. Continue up and right to 2 bolt anchor. The route ends at the top of Jungle Cruiser. Rap down Jungle Cruiser. From what I recall, a 60 meter rope would get down the first rap and maybe the 2nd rap. Double ropes required on the last two raps (Rap 3 and 4). Enjoyable route that is in the shade all day.

Location

Left Side of Golder Dome (furthest left climb listed in Kerry's Backcountry guidebook).

Protection

Single Rack, Nuts to #3 Camalot. A few bolts on Pitches 2, 3, and 4. Fixed Anchors on top of Pitch 2 and Pitch 4. PG-13 rating because, typical of the area, the bolts on the slab/face are few and far between but the slab/face is manageable if you are comfortable with some run-out sections.