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Peak Mountain 3

Bishops Surprise

FA Dwight Bishop
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A truly surprising, varied, and fun route! Start by climbing up the crack in the big chimney, or just lean back and chimney up until you gain a sloping stance. Wrestle past a tree, moving slightly right of the splitter finger crack to a good stance. Plug some gear, and fire up the thin crack supplemented with cool face holds. Make a hand traverse right, and gain a good ledge. From here, the climbing eases. Move up and left, then back to the right over good flakes and ledges. One more exciting and airy move right gains a left ascending ramp under a large tree. Go up this ramp, left of the tree, and belay on the top of the formation at a great belay spot.

Descent:

Walk about 20' right along the top of the formation. Rappel from chains (70m makes it down in one go, midway rap station for shorter ropes). Don't fall into the large gap behind the big flake as you step over to the chains :)

Location

After ascending the gully/ramp under the west face, when the ramp ends (Owl Dihedral), step up and make an easy traverse left around the prow, stepping down to another huge ledge.

Protection

Micro to large hand sized cams, stoppers, and plenty of slings (several long ones), as the route is just a tad wandering. Gear belay (hand sized).