- Edit (TBD)
Description
Is it 12d? Is it 13a? This is yet another Rifle slash-rated route that has spawned endless campfire grade bickering. Due to severe boot polish it's probably become 13a over the last couple of years.
This fine route climbs the deceptively hard groove/dihedral feature out right of the Anti-Phil. It originally ended at the top of the corner below an imposing bulge, but Kurt quickly moved the anchors up once he realized the quality of the climbing to be had through the bulge. There are some huge perched flakes above the anchors -- Don't go near these! In fact, don't even breathe in their direction or think about them -- as recent shedding in the Arsenal can attest, Rifle often falls down without any help from climbers.
Start in the well-trampled dirt area below the center of the wall (there is a rotting picnic table here) and boulder up and right along a pocketed seam which leads to the face at the base of the corner. Tricky, slippery moves take you up into the corner, which eases up the higher you get. Rest well before the finishing bulge, a powerful, technical affair on nice brown and black stone that has spit more than one climber off (it's a long ride).
Protection
10-12 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope.
Routes in Anti-Phil Wall
- 17Poetic Justice5.13aSport