Waveland

This is a variation to "Candyland" that starts on "The Wave" for 2 pitches and then stays left and continue up "Candyland". We feel it makes for a much more natural line and doesn't change the grade much. We did it in 7 + 1 pitches (more on the "+1" in a moment).

I would recommend just doing the 7 pitches and then rap off, unless you are ready for adventure in a vertical forest. It becomes vertical bushwacking mountaineering at its best(worst?)

Pitch 1 - 5.8 200+ feet. Start on P1 of "The Wave". It is located on the left most side along the slab - you have to hike up left from the base of the slab off of the approach trail to about 60-100 feet or so up in the gully separating Chinos slab from Bore Tide. If you look hard enough you will see a bolt right on the slab to protect establishing one's self on the slab from the bushes below. Got up and there is some natural pro to 5 more bolts. The crux is right at the 5th bolt and is well protected. 6 bolts total 200+ feet to a bolted anchor. 60 meter will ALMOST NOT reach - it's super close!

Pitch 2 - 5.6? 230+ feet. Start from the bolted anchor and just go straight up the slab following 3 bolts. It's mostly low angle (5.3? 5.2?) to a single 5.6 move. 60 meter rope WILL NOT reach the tree ledge and we simul-climbed to avoid any shenanigans.

Pitch 3 - the crux is at the start and ends lower angle. Not much pro but after 5.5 start it's mostly an easy steep hike. 190 feet to a tree ledge and use the tree as the anchor.

Pitch 4 - From the ledge go up and right past the bushiness that is in front of you. Then go straight up. Route finding can be tricky here - use the beta pics for reference. Tricams works on this pitch for pro. Again pretty run out but super easy. 5.2 170 feet or so.

At the top of the pitch move the belay station about 50 feet to the right through a "subway" tunnel. See the beta photos for reference.

Pitch 5 - there is much route finding here so pay attention. Go up and right past a bushy ledge to a headwall of sorts - it has diagonal as well as horizontal cracks that is completely vegetated. I gardened the pro (BD #1 works quite well in a horizontal after cleaning out the dirt) and it leads to a grassy ledge that has an overlap slab. Go to the middle of that slab and mantle up onto it - it's only like 15-20 feet long and it'll dump you in a gardened grassy ledge at the bottom of a very clean looking slab. Sling the tree there and belay. 170 feet 5.6.

Pitch 6 - go up the clean slab passing a bolt, then aim for the shallow corner above it and use it for pro and follow it up. When the corner peters out there should be another bolt. Exit left to another ledge and belay from a tree. 5.6 2 bolts total 180 feet.

From here there is a "climber's trail" that moves the belay up the tree ledge about 80 feet to a clearing for the next pitch.

Pitch 7 - It's lichen-y and bushy and just not very memorable. 5.6 170 feet. Basically go up and right and through a ledge with bushes, and then up the slab more to a clearing you can spot with a rappel sling tied around a tree that marks the top of the pitch.

---------------- From here be forwarned that the climb is basically done. You can rappel from here or if you want to do some adventure climbing/suffering...

300+ feet of bushwack mountaineering awaits. It starts off well enough on a "climber's trail" that's pretty faint that goes up and right. It ends in a lichen-y broken slab. The slab heads back left. Going up the slab doesn't instill confidence with the lichen but it's probably the right way and it leads to some ferns and then into some pine trees. It will deposit you at the left side of the headwalls.

The mythical 8th pitch. If someone actually climbed it, let me know. The headwall looks very impressive, but we spot at least 3 "left leaning ramp" that seem to fit the description. The one the party ahead of us tried was pretty loose and not at all clean rock so they retreated.