We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Whining

FA Bill Boyle
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A decent route that follows a left-facing layback crack.  A pretty sustained route with a crimpy crux at the very end.  Besides a few short sections of poor rock, the route is pretty solid.

Follow wandering pockets up a vertical face to the base of the obvious crack.  Layback moves, some jams, and the occasional pocket help you make progress.  Beware that the rock deteriorates for a short section about half way up.  Key holds are pretty solid but anything else is suspect.

Eventually, you will reach the large undercling just below the headwall. Make use of a few small crimps and pull your way past the redpoint crux to glory.

Finish on the anchors for This Must Be the Pickle.

Be sure to warn people not to stand below you when climbing on this route.  Also, cleaning this route is a bit of a hassle.  Just have you belayer anchor to a tree so you can stay clipped to rope to avoid taking huge swing.

Will definitely improve with some traffic.

Location

RIght of This Must Be the Pickle.  Look for crack.

Protection

Bolts and two bolt anchor.  The bolts are old and weathered so inspect them before trusting them with your life.