Mountain Beast

Mountain Beast is a fine route for those who have done the far more classic routes on the Eagle Wall. A few pitches are outstanding, but others are very lackluster. Begin at the far upper right margin of the Eagle Wall, approximately 150' right of Levitation (5.11), and 30' left of the saddle that drops down to the East. Belay from a nice flat area - you should be able to spot the anchors at the end of the first pitch in a heart-shaped alcove.

P1: Follow a left-leaning crack system to a ledge, then up a short corner with a hand crack to the bolted belay. 5.9.

P2: Step out of the alcove to the right, head up past a few bolts, then trend straight left past three more bolts and the crux - a very thin 15' or so section of climbing. Belay in another alcove. A good pitch. 5.11.

P3: Face climb up and up and up. Belay on a ledge in the large left-facing, right-leaning corner/ramp system. 5.6-8?

P4: Climb up a corner then leave the corner and traverse left and up slightly to a two-bolt anchor. 5.9.

P5: Face climb up past 9 bolts and a few wire placements to a two-bolt anchor and semi-hanging belay stance. Many of the holds are fragile on this pitch and a delicate touch helps. 5.10.

P6: Climb up the beautiful face past two bolts and then up a dead-vertical black wall, slotting bomber wires in amazing incut pods. The best pitch on the climb - 5.9+. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

P7: Wander up and slightly right on lower angle terrain (somewhat more tricky to protect), eventually moving right to belay on a flat ledge at a large tree. 5.6-8?

P8: Continue up the extremely contrived white slab past seven or so bolts (pretend not to see the much more beautiful dihedral to your right) to a two-bolt belay just below the summit.

Many of the pitches can be linked. We did it in 5.

Walk off or rap Levitation with two ropes. With some slings around the tree, it may be possible to rap Mountain Beast with two ropes.

Mountain Beast

Description

Protection

Routes in Eagle Wall