- Edit (TBD)
Call Declined
Description
About par for 1980's bouldering for trad climbers, and a sampling of Wawona climbing history. This is the first climbable boulder on Chilnualna Falls Rd.
Awesome climb starting under an overhang with a massive block for feet. Start low with a left hand as low on the rail as you can get, and a right hand pulling on the widest pocket of a vertical crack weaving up the entire face of the boulder. Bump up left and dyno/deadpoint to a massive edge around the blind corner. There's a perfect high foot, and some high tension pulls, then easy topout. There are several variations on this climb, such as a stand start on the jugs at eye level, or using painful intermediates to bypass the big move. If you do the dead point, taller climbers may find their feet brushing the ground. Just pull hard and get those feet high right away.
Location
Far left of the main Mortar Rock, just about the only overhang here. There's a small utility structure just to the left and in front of the climb. Park at the SNRS or Pioneer History Center.
To tackle the entire climb, start a left hand as low on the rail as you can get and a right hand pulling on the vertical crack. You'll likely see a couple great looking holds caked in chalk over the lip. You probably won't touch most of them if you start from the over hang, but the stand start makes good use of the majority of these nooks. Aim for the large, excellent rail.
Protection
One pad is all you need.
Routes in Mortar Rock
- 1Call DeclinedV3-Bouldering