Eleven

This is an 11 pitch tour of Eldo 5.11's, starting in South Boulder Creek and summiting Tower One. Even though the climbing is a connection of dis-continuous routes, it actually flows together pretty well. Consider stashing some water and your packs near

Suparete

and then walking down to the start.

Pitch 1:

Water Line

, 11a. Instead of heading up the 5.9 R upper section after the crux, step left, and head over to a belay bolt on the slab below

Mineral Maze

.

Pitch 2:

Mineral Maze

, 11d. This is definitely the crux of the entire day. If you haven't done this pitch before, it may be wise to check it out before trying the entire link up. Maybe bring a brush. After topping out, step left over toward the

Wing Shot

zone, but stay low, and find the start to

Thunderworld

(just left of

Morning Thunder

).

Pitch 3:

Thunderworld

, 11b. It is fun climbing out the hand crack to a slab move past the bolt. Alternatively, you could substitute

The Exterminator

(11b R) if you wanted to add some spice.

Pitch 4:

Wingshot

, 11b. Belay all the way at the top. Alternatively, you could do

Wishbone

,11c. Walk off to the North towards the Kloof alcove.

Pitch 5:

Kloof

, 11a. OK, the guidebook gives it 10d, but it's gonna feel like 11a by the time you get here. Alternatively do

Sequential

, 12a, or Non-Dairy Creamer, 11c. Walk off to the East toward the start of

Suparete

.

Pitch 6:

Suparete

, 11b. Enjoy the bolts.

Pitch 7:

Super Slab

, pitch one,11a. Alternatively, climb P1 of

DG

, also 11a, slightly harder than

Super Slab

.

Pitch 8 & 9:

Doub-Griffith

, pitch 2 & 3, 11a & 11c. This is fun stuff. Hopefully it's not too hot by the time you've arrived here. Scramble up to the

Mellow Yellow

area and locate the start of

Psycho Pigeon

.

Pitch 10 & 11:

Psycho Pigeon

, 11b & 11a. Combine the 5.9 first pitch with the 11b second pitch, and belay at the classic

Yellow Spur

arete belay. The guidebook calls the last pitch of

Psycho Pigeon

, 10d, but I think most would agree is mildly spicy 11a or b. Place small cams or wires before the first bolt of this section. Belay on the summit of Tower One.

Drink a cold beverage, enjoy it. Think about the ten or eleven pitch 5.12 route that you can piece together following the same general path.

Start on

Water Line

, 11a, right at the very bottom of the West Ridge. Locate a bushy crack that ends at a bolt.

A standard Eldo rack.