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Peak Mountain 3

Loose Lips

FA August '79 Jim Dunn, Martha Morris, Ken Sims, Alain Comeau
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lean off the block to clip the first bolt. Make a spooky step across the divide and climb past 2 more bolts on very small holds gaining a nice rest and more good pro. Climb down and left to a flake/crack that you will follow up and left to easier climbing and a two bolt anchor. There are two cruxes in my opinion; the bolted section is definitely one of them and also the first part of the flake though not as hard it is challenging (small wires help protect this part).

It's a nice 5.10a link up to do Seventh Seal (10a) to Loose Lips, however you have many choices of approach.

2 rope rappel to the ground.

Location

On the top of Ethereal Buttress, there lies a block stand facing the cliff on the right side of the block. There is a line of bolts up an alarmingly blank wall. That's your route.

Protection

3 bolts and a standard rack with some small wires. Double ropes are helpful.