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Peak Mountain 3

Carabid

FA Chet Sutterlin, Bob Bury, 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If not for difficult to place protection and runout sections Carabid would make an excellent first gear lead. From the standard start climb a crack system up about 100 feet and then use a hand traverse right to reconnect to the crack system. Continue up a few feet and then traverse left about 20 feet to a set of bolt anchors. A 50-meter rope will reach the anchors for Drill 'em and Fill 'em or Phoenix. A second rap reaches the ground. A 60-meter rope will reach the standard start then down climb to gully to the ground.

Location

Start 20 feet right and 20 feet above the base of Drill 'em and Fill 'em by scrambling up the obvious gully to the standard start - a level spot below a discontinuous crack system. An optional start begins 20 feet to the right of Drill 'em and Fill 'em and below the standard start at a obvious crack system. The optional start adds about 20 feet to this already fairly long one-pitch route.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches but mostly small to medium nuts and cams plus standard-length runners.