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Peak Mountain 3

Checkerboard Wall

FA Brad Shilling
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Description

All three Checkerboard Wall routes use the same approach (Left .10b. Center 5.9, Right 5.8). Climb a grainy crack that starts on the northeast corner of the rock (hard to get off the ground) to a nice ledge at the bottom of the Checkerboard (optional belay here). An airy traverse left leads to the Left option, or climb straight up to the Center crack or right to Right crack. The Left option climbs a short, very thin face to reach the arete, which it follows to the summit of the North Tower. The other two variations follow cracks and face to the summit.

Location

Descend from two-bolt anchor on the northwest corner of the tower (awkward to start).

Protection

Thin gear for Left (stoppers, small cams), carry a 4 camalot for the Center, and standard rack for the Right.


Routes in Shangri La


  1. 1
    Checkerboard Wall
    5.10
    Trad