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Peak Mountain 3

We Got Fun and Games

FA Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, 2-4-2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Excellent 2 pitch route with a moderate first pitch on bullet stone, an exciting crux pitch 2, and quality crack-climbing throughout.

From the start (in the splitter through a bulge just right of the horizontal pine tree) head straight up the beautiful slab linking left-facing, corner features and cracks before angling left, before the biggish roof. This leftward traverse gains access to the BIG, left-facing, corner system that leads to the BIG roof in the center of the cliff. Belay on the slab left of the big corner.

From the belay, climb the big, left-facing, corner through the big roof (easier than it looks). Above this roof is a slab. Angle left across the slab to a pair of twin cracks that split the vertical wall above. Unfortunately they don't extend all the way down to the slab. This gap presented the mental crux for me. Get some RPs in the bottom of the cracks, and climb up into the one on the right. After the crack slabs out and turns into a right facing corner, follow it up to a bulging flake crack on the left wall of the dihedral. Crank out this bulge to another slab with a crack in it. Follow the crack to an easy leaning corner and the topout.

Descend by scrambling off to the East.

Location

The right side of the crag extends lower down the hillside. The base of the cliff here is on an obvious lower tier. There is a small pine tree growing nearly horizontally out of the cliff, and a small bulge with a crack running vertically through it just to its right. The route starts here.

Protection

Standard rack including RPs, doubles of cams up to red Camalot. Bunch of draws, several slings.