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Peak Mountain 3

Heads Up

FA Prehmus
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Description

P1: climb to the small, dark crack, then move up to some pockets (5.7). This lower section protects reasonably. Trend right as you exit the steeper rock for the lower angle slab. Protection on the slab gets tricky. There are several small chickenheads for psychological protection of the 5.5 climbing up to the two bolt anchor.

P2: climb to the single bolt above the anchor (5.6 crux), then follow the crack with great gear. Continue straight up. The chickenheads get huge near the top.

Location

Heads Up is in the Park View east side gully. It's a bit more than 2/3 of the way up the gully from the huge pine tree. Look for the

identifying dark crack

at the left edge of a rooflet where the wall goes to near vertical.

Protection

A standard rack to 2" with lots of full length runners to sling the chickenheads.