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Peak Mountain 3

Northern Passage Upper

FA Bill Coe, Eric Lindthwaite, Jim Opdyke
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Northern Passage Upper starts from the left side of the terrace. It was unearthed 2 weeks earlier than Lower and climbed while it was still damp and muddy in approach shoes. 1 bolt was installed for the FA, later removed when Jim Opdycke returned and spent another full weekend cleaning the route off and he shockingly discovered 2 small perfect placements for nuts which had been earlier hidden deep under the mud. There is a perfect short 5-6" crack at top which can be either climbed or avoided by heading left to the large fir tree and up the short face above to top out. A 3/4" cam will work for protection near the top for either variation (unless you just like carrying large gear) and as with all regular climbs, bring a few long over the shoulder length slings to keep the line of pro straight. It is recommended that folks always stay clipped in as there is a real possibility of this entire dirt ledge sliding off. Disregard this note if you do not see any dirt on the ledge up here.

Protection

Route:

small pieces to 1" (6" optional)

Anchor:

You can get 5 pieces of pro in for an anchor if you look hard enough, small to medium wired stoppers and small/med cams or hexes.


Routes in (3) Hummingbird Wall and Hummingbird Terrace