- Edit (TBD)
The Greatest Commandment, Mark 12:30
Description
This route may feel like a 5.12 if trying to onsight it. It is the bolted line to climber's left of, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," and starts from the ground behind a large block in front of bolt 1. Move up via a fun, mildy overhanging compression boulder problem past two bolts, then figure out how to get on top of the bulge. Here you will find a good rest. Don't forget to take a look down and enjoy the perspective from this unique perch. When ready, clip bolt 3 and enjoy some balancy and technical face moves up to bolt 4 then smear and crank your way up the final slab onto easy ground to gain the anchor.
It is possible to set up a top-rope on this route if you lead one of the routes to the right or left. Left is, "Private Pepper," 5.7, and right is, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," 5.10b. When top-roping, the bulge tends to work the rope pretty hard so I recommend using a static rope or a rope of which you don't mind wearing the sheath. About 35 meters of rope should work fine.
Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rings. I recommend using a single carabiner to clip bolt one; this gains a few more inches from the ground if clipping bolt 2 goes awry. There is a large space between bolts 2 and 3 and an option for pro (0.5" - 0.75"), but it is likely unnecessary since you can clip high from a stance on a ledge and a jug. There is an option to place a shallow, medium nut for additional pro just past the last bolt.
If Tobin put this route up, there would probably be less bolts.
Routes in Jamcrack Wall
- 2The Greatest Commandment, Mark 12:305.11cSport