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Peak Mountain 3

Sarlacc

FA Bayard Russell, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You drove to Maine, but somehow you're climbing on a schist version of New River Gorge. Physical, juggy cruxes on steep rock. Bolts right where you need them. Exciting but safe falls. A perfect rock climb.Scramble up to get the first two bolts clipped, and then use an undercling to pull into the first crux. Reach a good rest, clip the fixed chain, and then launch into the burly undercling crux with smears for feet. Take in the sit-down rest and the nice view of Shell Pond before launching into the heartbreaker top out. This route is so good!

Location

Walk left from where the approach trail first meets the cliff. This climb starts just the the right of two blocks at the base of the wall.

Protection

Nine bolts