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Peak Mountain 3

Magic Cactus

FA John Knight & Keith Noback - August 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A continuous series of well protected 5.8-ish moves. If you don't get the beta perfect, it may feel more like 5.9. A series of bolts protect all the moves except near the top. You'll need to carry a 1" wide cam and slip it into a pocket near the top of the climb. Without the cam, there is a 15' to 20' runout on 5.7. 

Location

From the Thunder Mountain Trailhead parking lot, just follow the Thunder Mountain Trail until you're really close to the rock and then head due north. See main subarea page for more info. on the approach. Once at the rock, look for a "magic" prickly pear cactus. The climb starts right above the cactus and stays right of the dirty corner. 

Protection

9 draws plus a #1 cam near the top.