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Peak Mountain 3

Cosmic Monsters

FA Dave Quinn, 11/94
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Description

A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.

Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).

A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.

youtube.com/watch?v=rk7Pnyp…

Location

The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....

Protection

4 bolts to anchor.